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Natural Annoyance

We have become used to a quiet, untroubled
suburban life in the Tri-Valley, and when nature intrudes, we become
concerned. Here at Wild Birds Unlimited, we frequently are asked for advice
about controlling the damage or annoyance presented by birds, mammals or
insects. As you may know, woodpeckers are protected under
one or more international treaties, so may not be killed
legallly.
The following list of controls was suggested
by Cornell’s Emily Germano and Sandra
Vehrencamp in Living Bird,
vol 22, no. 1, Winter
2003. Living Bird is the publication sent to members (contributors to) the
Cornell Laboratory of Ornithology. The authors cover damage to houses and
ornamentals by woodpeckers and insects. We encourage you to join the Cornell
Laboratory support group to get the
magazine and read this article. The website is
www.birds.cornell.edu .
CONTROL METHODS
The best way
to keep woodpeckers from hammering on your house is to begin damage control as
soon as you hear the first tap. And you should continue these measures even
after the woodpecker has left to ensure that it does not return. Any holes the
bird has made in your house should be immediately repaired and painted to
avoid attracting more wood- peckers.
General woodpecker deterrents
1. Visual deterrents
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Aluminum
foil strips or reflective tape hung from areas where damage occurs may scare
away woodpeckers. The strips should be long enough to hang freely and blow in
the breeze.
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Windsocks hung from house corners serve the same purpose as aluminum foil and
may be less intrusive.
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Handheld
windmills, especially those with reflective vanes, can be attached along areas
of damage. The motion of the revolving vanes may discourage woodpeckers.
2. Sound
deterrents
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With
an electronic distress call system, a recording of a woodpecker distress call
followed by the call of a predator such as a Sharp-shinned Hawk is broadcast
through a speaker system at various intervals to frighten woodpeckers away
from your house. One example is
BirdGard,
manufactured by Weitech.
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A
movement detector that makes noise when it senses movement can be attached to
damaged areas (this will also keep deer away from your garden).
3. Tactile deterrents
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Although some people recommend applying sticky repellents such as
Tanglefoot,
Pest Control, Roost-No-More, and Bird Stop
to areas where damage is occurring, we are against using them. These
products can get on a bird's plumage, impairing its ability to fly and stay
warm. Moreover, they can darken and stain wooden siding and cause dirt to
adhere to the surface where they're applied.
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4. Other
Preventive Measures
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To
prevent damage under eaves, lightweight nylon or plastic netting can be
attached from the overhanging eaves to the siding of the damaged building.
To keep the birds from reaching through the net, leave at least three inches
between the net and the siding. |
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Aluminum flashing can be used to cover existing holes or to line the corner
or fascia boards of the house. You can paint it to match your siding.
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Setting
up a suet feeder in your yard may draw the birds away from your house. Keep
the feeder supplied with food throughout fall, winter, and spring when
natural food is scarce and the birds are hungriest because of the cold
weather. Remove the feeder, or switch to suet dough, during the hot
summer months because the suet may become sticky and adhere to the bird's
plumage. Suet dough melts at a higher temperature. |
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To dull
the sound produced by drumming, place padding behind the area where the bird
is drumming. |
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Nesting
or roosting woodpecker problem |
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As long
as a nest is not already established, existing holes should be plugged with
wood putty. If the birds already have eggs or young, the holes can be sealed
after the nestlings have fledged, usually by midsummer. The preventive
measures outlined under General Woodpecker Deterrents, can then be followed
to keep the woodpecker off your house. |
6. Insect prevention
1.
Carpenter bees
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If
there are long trenches and holes on the wood fascia boards of your house,
chances are you've got carpenter bees, and the woodpeckers have discovered
them. To discourage the woodpeckers, you must get rid of the bees.
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Carpenter bees prefer to drill into either natural or stained wood. If the
wood is painted (oil base or polyurethane), there is less chance of
infestation, because a hard finish deters bees. |
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If you
prefer natural or stained wood, spray the area with a preventive insect
control such as
Cypermethrin.
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If the
bees are already established, consider using an insecticide specifically
designed to control wasps and bees. It should be sprayed into the entrance
holes in late evening or at night when the bees are inside the tunnels.
After 24 hours, plug the tunnel entrances with a cork, wooden dowel, or wood
putty to keep bees from recolonizing there.
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2.
Leafcutter bees and other insects
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If
your house is sided with grooved plywood, painting it will often seal core
gaps, preventing insects from tunneling into the wood. If you don't want to
paint your house, caulking along the sides of the vertical grooves can cover
en- trances to gaps in the core. This is labor-intensive, but it is often
the only way to get rid of the insects. Once the gaps are caulked, the
damage should be repaired so old holes don't attract foraging woodpeckers.
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For houses sided with wooden
shakes, shingles, or board and batten, the most effective remedy is probably
to get an exterminator to spray the outside of your house with insecticide
and then replace the damaged shakes or boards. If damage is continuous and
extensive, an electronic distress call system may be effective.
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Damage prevention
for trees
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Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers tend to drill for sap in certain ornamental trees,
such as the mountain ash. To keep sapsuckers from damaging trees (boring
rings of small holes around the bark of the trunk or limbs),
wrap a burlap bag or other heavy material around the damaged area. Or you
could allow the woodpeckers to use the damaged tree in the hope that they
will not move to other trees. Keep in mind that sapsuckers; tend to drill
into trees that are already diseased or damaged. |
Other
Problem Situations
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One common
complaint from homeowners is the roosting of pigeons on their new roofs.
Aside from the aesthetics, the corrosive leftovers can destroy such a roof
in short order. We recommend mechanical exclusion over chemical or fatal
controls. In the Tri-Valley, we have Band-tailed Pigeons, which are
protected, as well as Rock Doves. They act the same and are difficult for
the unpracticed to distinguish in the field. For those and other reasons, it
is better not to trap or kill them. A cursory search of the Web revealed the
link below. This company manufacturers of combs one mounts on probable
perches to discourage birds from landing. (We searched for "Bird Control") |
http://www.birdbarrier.com/
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It would be wise, probably, to consult a
professional to help find the most effective solution for your situation.
Our local telephone yellow pages have a heading, Bird Barriers, Repellents and
Controls, where several firms are listed. |
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